Winter Protection for Fig Trees

Beginner Guide to protecting fig trees through winter

This is a simple introduction to protecting fig trees through winter.
For the complete Zone 7b strategy—including low tunnels, insulation, backup heat, root protection, and how to preserve 3–4 feet of branch growth—read our pillar guide Winter Protection & Dieback Prevention.

A complete guide to preventing dieback and ensuring early, reliable harvests.

Winter protection is the single most important factor separating inconsistent fig growers from those who enjoy dependable crops year after year in Zone 7b. Although figs can survive temperatures well below freezing, the tender new wood that carries the coming season’s fruit is far more vulnerable. A winter low of 10–15°F is enough to kill the top growth on many cultivars, and even hardier varieties can experience partial dieback during sudden cold snaps. By understanding how figs respond to cold and applying a few simple protective measures, you can preserve your tree’s fruiting wood, shorten its spring recovery, and create a much earlier and heavier harvest.

Figs enter dormancy in late fall and develop increasing cold tolerance as their tissues harden. The timing of this process varies depending on rainfall, nutrition, and temperature patterns, which is why some winters seem harmless while others cause significant injury. The key is not guessing whether your fig will survive unprotected but ensuring that it does. Growers who consistently protect their trees enjoy significantly better results than those who rely on chance.

The foundation of successful winter protection begins with site choice, and if you followed the guidance from Lesson #1, your tree is already positioned well. South-facing walls, fences, or structures retain daytime heat and moderate nighttime temperature swings. Trees planted near buildings benefit from radiant warmth and reduced wind exposure, helping them enter and exit dormancy smoothly. However, even the best-located fig still requires protection during harsh winters, especially when temperatures fall below 20°F.

For in-ground figs, the most dependable method in Zone 7b involves a combination of bending, insulating, and covering. After the leaves drop and the tree fully enters dormancy, the branches become more flexible. At this stage, you can gently tie the long shoots together and lower them toward the ground, securing them with landscape pins or stakes. This step dramatically reduces exposure to wind and allows the insulation you add to work more effectively. Once the branches are secured, cover them with a thick layer of loose organic material such as leaves, pine straw, or wood chips. The goal is to trap air within the material, not compress it; dense packing reduces the insulation value. Over this layer, many growers add a breathable tarp, frost cloth, or even a sheet of plastic to keep the insulation dry while still allowing limited airflow. This method provides excellent protection even during severe cold events.

For growers who prefer a more upright structure, a vertical cage can be formed with welded-wire fencing around the tree. Fill the cage loosely with leaves or straw, then wrap the outside with burlap or frost cloth. This approach maintains the tree’s natural shape but requires more material and may not be as protective during prolonged cold spells. However, it remains a popular and reliable method, especially for medium-sized trees that cannot easily be bent.

Container-grown figs are far easier to protect. Once dormant, simply move the pot into a garage, shed, barn, or unheated room where temperatures remain between 25°F and 45°F. This range keeps the tree dormant without exposing it to damaging cold. Even a bright, enclosed porch can work as long as temperatures stay above the critical threshold. Water lightly once every 4–6 weeks to prevent the soil from becoming bone dry. Because container figs avoid freeze–thaw cycles, they typically keep most of their fruiting wood, resulting in exceptionally early figs the following spring.

Some growers use more advanced strategies such as low tunnels, mini-greenhouses, or supplemental heat sources. A plastic-covered hoop structure can increase temperatures dramatically on sunny winter days, while maintaining protection at night. Adding water barrels, compost heat, or small thermostatically controlled heaters can prevent freeze injury even during extreme weather, effectively eliminating dieback altogether. These systems require more planning but offer unmatched reliability and are ideal for orchards with many young trees or for growers seeking maximal early production.

Regardless of the method you choose, consistency is the key. Begin protection once the tree is fully dormant—usually after several nights below freezing—and keep the protection in place until the danger of hard frost has passed. Removing it too early can expose tender buds to late-season cold injuries. A carefully protected fig tree will awaken in spring with intact fruiting wood, vigorous growth, and a dramatically reduced recovery period, leading to earlier harvests and a stronger overall tree.

With dependable winter protection, figs in Zone 7b behave much more like figs in warmer climates, producing heavier crops, larger fruit, and more predictable yields. The process need not be complicated; it simply requires an understanding of the tree’s needs and a commitment to preserving its most valuable asset—its living wood.

Want the full winter-protection system we use in our Zone 7b orchard?
Our complete pillar guide explains the methods that preserve 3–4 feet of fig wood each year—tunnels, wraps, insulation strategies, microclimates, and recovery pruning.
Read the full guide: Winter Protection & Dieback Prevention.